Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Across the City
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on